THE ROOKIE

The surf is hitting 35f+ft wave walls this weekend……a sceptical worth seeing. So Darliene and I ventured down to or local Makaha beach, a benign little strip of sand with some steep slopes frequented by the locals. The average surf was about 10ft with the odd wave much larger. The activities were furious and the surfing was amazing. The surf beckoned and I wanted to test the water to see how warm it was and how the wave felt. Darliene said don’t do it. I said why not and ventured forth fully clothed.

I stood at the edge of the water and got my feet wet. It felt good. A few waves later I saw they were getting bigger so I started to climb up the slope and as I turned I got hit by a wave that was up to my waist. My leg bad buckled and I want down. The undertow washed away my footing and I sat in a hole and could not get up as a second wave hit. The lifeguard was there in less than 30 second (driving an ATV) and he and a second man picked me up and dragged me to safety. I hurt my bad knee and drowned my cell phone. My pockets and everything else were full of sand.

The rookie learned all about the big surf today and Darliene did not say I told you so.

I iced down my knee and the next day I am still hobbling around.